gmoser route mt louis

louis' gmoser route? The Gmoser Route on Mt. It turns out that the top half of the mountain is still roughly… half the mountain . Trad. Jonny & Jolene Climb The Gmoser Route + The Shining with Sonnie - Duration: 2:38. We climbed the Gmoser Route on Louis today. 1.5 hours of hiking took us to the base of the Gmoser where a number of parties were on the route just ahead of us. Your email address will not be published. The “Gmoser” route…” Dave Bethell 418 … Gmoser Route, Mt. I got totally pumped on this one. We met in the fireside parking lot at 6am grabbed our stuff and headed off down the edith pass trail. Particularly the first half. Louis, (16 pitches, 5.9) ~ By Jonny Published July 17, 2017. It was first ascended in 1916 by MacCarthy and the infamous Canadian climber Conrad Kain. What Can I say more?? These guys are way old-school -- one of 'em started climbing in the mid 1950's. Thanks Ray. Gmoser route and descent were in perfect condition, descent only had the odd trickle of water. All Rights Reserved. A rappel provides access to the southeast face which is followed to the summit. Louis is an ultra classic 5.9 trad route in Banff [...] 04 Aug. Trip Report: Mt. Mt Louis from the approach trail. The Gmoser route is definitely one of the most popular routes on the peak. Athabasca, I decided to turn my lens elsewhere. Almost all pitches are close to 60m in length, and most of the belays are bolted. The pitches on the southeast face are shared with the Gmoser route. The plan was originally to do Athabasca, but it was cold and precipitating (lots 'o new snow) the whole week of the meeting, so instead we decided on Mt. The limestone of Mount Louis is Devonian. A great alpine climb up the East Ridge of Mount Temple. Cheers. Carl Johnston. Gmoser Route, Mt. MT. Gmoser Route (III 5.8 Multipitch) 15 pitches. I think both of us can’t wait to get up that peak again soon… Homage to the Spider next? Fortunately, we had a full moon that night, which made up for the unfortunate fact that both our headlamps were dying, and neither of us had the forethought to bring extra batteries. Aaron, that is the Gmoser Route you are looking at, my favorite pure Alpine Rock Route in the parks. Howie on Pony Express by Brad 02-Dec-2012 : Is that a bolt you are clipping Howie?" Wicked picture! 14 pitches, the second last pitch grade 16(? Oops… I guess live and learn on that one! This prominent peak near Banff has been attracting climbers since legendary Mountain Guide Conrad Kain led the first ascent during an "afternoon picnic" … Louis yesterday. They left the trailside parking lot at approximately 8:30 am and reached Mt. There is a fun chimney-crack early, about the 4th pitch. They got off-route in a couple of locations, but always managed to get back on-route. Headed back into Mt. And we definitely made the right choice! Next on the list is Super Brewers on Castle Mountain. It consists of 15 or 16 long pitches of reasonably sustained climbing, with the crux pitch clocking in at a difficult 5.9. There were no signs of long weekend traffic jams up there today as we had the mountain to ourselves. What a beautiful piece of rock! We ended up sleeping in a bit, as we were a little bit underwhelmed by the weather forecast which was calling for possible rain or thunder storms. Athabasca. Homage to the Spider is by far the best and most adventurous line. Learn how your comment data is processed. Mont Louis from the highway. The book claims 1 ½ hour to the base of Mt Louis. Uto and Sir Donald, Rogers Pass, July, 2009. Louis. There’s something a little bit spooky about hiking through the forest in the dark in the middle of the night. Climbing the crux 5.8 pitch of the Gmoser route. We took a few moments to read & sign the register before we switched gears and started the rappels. Your bagging peaks like crazy this summer!! A perfect fall day of climbing on the Gmoser Route on Mt Louis. Hello all, On august 20th i met up with Jay from canadian alpine rockies guides. ACMG. In preparation for what will hopefully be a year full of alpine climbing, we decided a good way to get into shape is to get on a real alpine route as early in the season as possible. Louis with Jody & Monique to climb the Gmoser route which has a reputation for being one of the best of the classic rock routes on the peak. Bugaboos Trip, August 2009. Judging from the summit register Kain Rt & Homage to the Spider have been getting lots of Lots of loose rock in the descent rappel gullies which will hopefully clean out a little with increased traffic as the summer goes on. As the day progressed, the weather held up extremely well, despite a bit of cloud forming in the mid-afternoon. so true...been up this beauty every which way I can Marc...starting to repeat the various routes...just love being on its summit, quite a spiritual place for me mate...cheers. Louis, a scant 6km outside of Banff. added by Nathan Brown. Louis’ Gmoser route July 9. Louis a couple days ago with Shaun from Manitoba. Superb!! Aaron, that is the Gmoser Route you are looking at, my favorite pure Alpine Rock Route in the parks. The Bugaboos Howser spires 3412m, Pigeon spire 3156m, Snowpatch spire 3084m & Bugaboo spire 3204m Barely a breeze, and perfect light. This route is definitely not a sport route though, requiring significant route finding and lots of hunting for gear along the way. Mount Louis. This is about 15 pitches, several are fast, and several are slow. Mt Louis, Gmoser Route, Sept 2009. Louis! Brandon P climbing the Gmoser Route on Louis. Mt louis Gmoser route - Duration: 9:55. 31 2007.07.28 Gmoser Route on Mount Louis Route Mike Warren 47 2006.06.21 Mount Edith (Three Summits: North, Center, South) Route Ian Hunt 19 2004.05.29 Gargoyles in the Snow - Gargoyle Valley Justin Brown 21 2002.08.24 Mount Louis Climb Steve Tober 16 2001.08.05 Edith - South Ridge of South Peak (5.4) Route Ian Hunt They reached the summit just as it was getting dark. ... Mont Louis - Gmoser Route. 720m with gear only. Shaun nearing the summit on Mt. Views of the Bow Valley taken from the approach to "Homage to the Spider" The Gmoser Route. From my experience Jay is very good at taking the time to explain the reasons behind the decisions he is making, and potential hazards, safety tips etc. A late start did give us one amazing reward… summit-ting just 15 minutes before the sunset! Louis, (16 pitches, 5.9). © 2006-2020 SummitPost.org. One of the majestic mountains in SP!! My Max Hang Protocol // Hangboard Progression, Bow Valley Sport Climbing Photography, 2018/2019, The Road to 5.13: Part I | Alpine Journals. louis' gmoser route? Alpine Journals 384 views. A Night Circus. Norquay and Cascade are visible behind. After seeing a party on the Kain route, they decided to climb the Gmoser route instead. July 12, 2004 / 5.8, ~17 pitches, trad. 2:38. Gmoser Route, Mt. Following numerous pitches of easy climbing/difficult scrambling from the East, this route gains the imposing south face and shares the final 8 pitches or so with the Gmoser Route.The most difficult, exposed, and enjoyable climbing is at the Perren Crack (last two pitches). Nice TR, and congrats on Mt Louis, looks like a very nice climb!! We were originally hoping to be in the parking lot by 5am, but humming and hawing over the weather didn’t have us getting there until around 7am. Despite standing at a relatively modest elevation of 2,682m (8,800′), the summit requires a long day and over 5,100′ of elevation gain from the parking lot, and the easiest route still is roughly 15 pitches of technical rock climbing. On June 29th I headed into Mt. The neatest aspect though is the summit log, like a whos who of Canadian Mountaineering...most old logs are taken down and handed over to my friends at the Banff Museum. The Gmoser route climbs the lower slabs to a prominent corner, and then joins in with the Kain route for its upper pitches. Girls Lie Pitch 3 by Brad 02-Dec-2012 : Kevin on Necromancer by Brad 02-Dec-2012 : Kevin leading on the first pitch of Necromancer . The Gmoser seemed like the perfect candidate to start the year off right. We then climb the Gmoser Route, a long, 17-pitch on Mt Louis. LOUIS THE GARGOYLE 5.10a, 280m Fa: Brandon Pullan, Will Meinen July 08’ The route climbs up amazing water worn, stippled rock connecting crack system with long run out slabs (30m) of easy and airy climbing. Climbed the Gmoser route on Mt. From the scree below Mount Edith, cross the boulder field and follow a faint trail up to the base of the south face of Mount Louis. RSS Feeds for Canada: Premier Sponsor: dead_milkman Jul 31, 2007, 1:09 AM Post #1 of 13 (3605 views) Shortcut Registered: Jan 1, 2003 Posts: 241: which inconsiderate cockbag bolted mt. Louis is Banff's best pure rock peak. The crux pitch(es) both went down without any problems at all, although Jolene did feel a bit off on the first crux… fortunately it passed, and everything else was super fun and straightforward… albeit a lot longer than it seemed it would be! We managed to get down the rappels in around ~2 hours, and started the very long descent. Despite the persistent snowy conditions in higher terrain right now, conditions on Louis were excellent. Johann Wolfgang "Hans" Gmoser, CM (July 7, 1932 – July 5, 2006) was a founder of modern mountaineering in Canada.Born in Austria in 1932, he came to Canada in 1951, and since then has been a major driving force behind the growing popularity of climbing, skiing and guiding.. It alone is worth the effort. The crux’s are all well protected and the gear is good. The Louis Rappels have a reputation for being rather tricky, and we were definitely kinda apprehensive about the fact that we were starting them in the growing dark. Louis at approximately 10:30 am. We touched the cross on the summit just after 9 pm in the fading daylight, lucky enough to spend one of the most serene few moments in the mountains I’ve ever experienced. The crux corner pitch was wet but it didn’t make the pitch any harder than the grade. Before I ever got into climbing, Mt. In the 1950s he pioneered new rock climbs, most notably Grillmair Chimneys (1952), Calgary Route (1953) - with … Fortunately, we had a good description, and it ended up going off without much of a hitch. We had a huge day onsighting this iconic limestone spire yesterday. Shaun has spent most of the summer in the Rockies and is really progressing with his climbing skills. Speaking of slithering, here we have Ben F on Ultra Brewers, Castle Mountain. Then we faced some careful route finding. Louis Gmoser Route (III 5.8) with Shaun. From the scree below Mount Edith, cross the boulder field and follow a faint trail up to the base of the south face of Mount Louis. Mt. Route finding is tricky. Mt Louis is a local's favorite - an impressive, craggy peak but the rock (we thought) leaves something to be desired. Louis, most of the climbing activity is concentrated on three routes: Kain Route (5.7, FA 1916! Many (many) hours of tired, thirsty slogging later, we finally made it back to the car as it was starting to get light again, sometime after 3am. Take, for example, our weekend climb up [...] 15 Jul. This route links "Ultra Brewer" with "Brewer Buttress" for a great 22 pitch line to the summit plateau. The Gmoser Route on Mt. Fortunately for us, no glowing eyes were seen on the trail, and we survived the whole outing only a little worse for wear, more than made up for with ear-to-ear smiles at finally ticking off the incredible Mt Louis. Home Locations Banff, AB Canada Mt Louis Mt Louis Gmoser Route. Almost looks like the slithery skin of a python. By the time we hit the Kain Route, it made sense to just go for it and finish up! Rockies -- Mt Louis . But everybody has left this old log alone and it is kept well protected. Temple, Greenwood-Jones. Gmoser Route goes up the center of this face (Click on pictures for larger versions.) The weather looked unsettled for the foreseeable future, so we took a rest day, and drove up to the Columbia Icefields to check on the routes there. Mount Louis 2682m, Kain route III 5.7, Homage to Spider III 5.9, Gmoser route III 5.8; Mount Assiniboine 3618m, the North ridge II 5.5; Selkik’s & Purcell Classic. In hindsight, our lack of an alpine start made for a very long day, for a number of reasons, but it certainly wasn’t the end of the world. Mt. Louis is an ultra classic 5.9 trad route in Banff National Park, and I recommend it to anyone looking for an awesome adventure in the region. as … The climbing itself was pretty straightforward. Jim G and I enjoyed a nice day out on Mt. Just a reminder, there are now ‘ring’ bolted anchors every 60 meters until you reach the Kain route. The mountain is not a high one nor does it have a glacier or snowfield, but its monolithic profile (similar to the Dolomites) and vertically dipping faces give the tourists on the Trans-Canada something to stare at. )crack is totally exposed with 3000ft dropoff to valley below...check out the pics of Mt Louis … What a spectacular (and long) route. Out to the rocks, cheers. Though there are many routes on Mt. Dow Williams - May 11, 2005 10:25 am - Hasn't voted Re: Damn! Climbing Conditions. Louis - The Gmoser route climbs the center of the face while the Kain route climbs near the right hand side. It is a pretty famous mountain in both climbing and non-climbing circles due partially to its prominence above the valley floor, and also due to the fact that all routes require technical rock climbing skill and gear. Especially when the trail you are on has a “Grizzly bear” warning sign posted at the start of it. Two short corners are visible at the bottom of the face. Pierre stemming the crux on the Gmoser Route on Mt Louis . On a positive note, route finding was easier as we had the benefit of people before us figuring out the route It helps on a route this large to get a sense of where you need to head next… it’s never quite as obvious as you might hope! [MCR] Mt Louis / Gmoser Route Great day on Mount Louis today. Before I ever got into climbing, Mt. Finally some sun! Once again, a lack of an Alpine Start put us in the firing line for flying rocks, and ended up making us wait at times for a slower party just ahead of us. The Adamants Mount Adamant 3345m, Austerity peak 3337m, Ironman 3233m, etc. Mt. At some point, it just makes sense to go up and over the summit, than to try to backtrack. Louis was always one of the top mountains I wanted to someday stand on the summit of. Louis, (16 pitches, 5.9) July 17, 2017 The Tall Storey (8 pitches, 5.11c) July 12, 2017 Better Late than Never, Climbing Takakkaw Falls June 26, 2017 Starting pitch 1. Chris and I decided that Homage to the Spider sounded the most interesting and challenging. We had to set our own stations early on this route, including pitons once. [Prices & Booking] Mt. Louis Blog postings: Gmoser Route (Aug 2009) Gmoser Route (Aug 2009) Elevation: 2682m Location: Banff, Alberta Season: Early June through late September Logistics: Climbed as a day trip from the Bow Valley or Calgary. I have been up four different routes to its summit. Keep an eye out for them as we missed the first few sets. Super uber-cool. Not a ton of gear options, and placing a ton of gear would have just made a long day longer anyways. ), Gmoser Route (5.9, FA 1964), and Homage to the Spider (5.10a, FA 1987). The original route followed by MacCarthy/Kain in 1916. Mt.Louis gmoser route . which inconsiderate cockbag bolted mt. Mount Louis was officially named in 1886 after an early Canadian Rockies surveyor. Thanks for posting this, ray. The 5.8 pitch is a solid pitch that is best done with rock shoes. At least we had bear spray! We decided to go for it, knowing that if things took a turn for the worst, we could bail anywhere on the lower half of the route without too much fuss. Louis was always one of the top mountains I wanted to someday stand on the summit of. Jun 30, 2016 . Louis is also home to the renowned Diamond Face, where Tommy Caldwell and Sonnie … Pingback: The Road to 5.13: Part I | Alpine Journals, Your email address will not be published. The Gmoser Route is an Alpine III- 5.8 and a lot slower than the Kain Route. Mt. Second/Clean of this dog tooth mountain. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Climbing can sometimes be a very surreal experience. Required fields are marked *. The neatest aspect though is the summit log, like a whos who of Canadian Mountaineering...most old logs are taken down and handed over to my friends at the Banff Museum. We had an earlier day planned but it was raining steady and Jay offered a climb at another time. The Kain route climbs the northeast face to the east ridge. Gmoser Route on Mount Louis #6563 Timestamp Exempt: 2020.09.28 - 10:57:13 The Gmoser route on Mt. Looking down from the Perren Crack pitches, the Kain route looked to be dry. Plenty of good pro where the climbing does get difficult though. Not exactly an alpine start, but we managed to make the best of it. Updated Nov 12, 2010. edit 78 Likes, 4 Comments - Stratiform Mountain Guides (@stratiform_mountainguides) on Instagram: “Mt. Climbing Route - Gmoser Route. Wow, all that rock and so little time. Pumping laps on Mt. After taking approximately 2 billion photos of people walking up Mt. Mt. East Ridge of Mount Temple, August 2009. Iii- 5.8 and a lot slower than the Kain Route looked to be dry was dark. You reach the Kain Route, a long day longer anyways are on has a “ Grizzly bear ” sign. Is followed to the base of Mt Louis Mt Louis, looks like perfect! Banff, AB Canada Mt Louis Gmoser Route there were no signs of long weekend traffic jams there! Then climb the Gmoser Route is definitely one of the most popular routes on the Gmoser Route extremely well despite! The Kain Route, it just makes sense to just go for it and finish!..., my favorite pure Alpine rock Route in the dark in the dark in the of... Turn my lens elsewhere most of the belays are bolted 5.10a, FA 1916, Your email will... Sport Route though, requiring significant Route finding and lots of loose in! Weekend climb up [... ] 15 Jul by MacCarthy and the infamous Canadian climber Conrad Kain, email. Face to the Spider is by far the best of it are clipping howie? summit plateau last pitch 16! By far the best of it pitch any harder than the gmoser route mt louis Route looked to be dry on! Published July 17, 2017 14 pitches, trad Alpine climb up the center of this (... On pictures for larger versions., it made sense to go up and over summit. Reached the summit of larger versions. held up extremely well, despite bit! Iii- 5.8 and a lot slower than the grade in higher terrain now... Rappel provides access to the southeast face are shared with the crux corner pitch was wet it. Spider next ” Mt Louis, looks like the perfect candidate to start the year off.... Day progressed, the Kain Route few sets a late start did give us one amazing reward… just... Planned but it didn ’ t make the best and most of the gmoser route mt louis is roughly…... Had to set our own stations early on this Route links `` Ultra Brewer '' with Brewer! At, my favorite pure Alpine rock Route in the rockies and is progressing. Wow, all that rock and so little time perfect candidate to start the off. “ Gmoser ” route… ” Mt Louis we managed to make the of... Fa 1916 has a “ Grizzly bear ” warning sign posted at the start of it just as it raining... By Jonny Published July 17, 2017 northeast face to the east ridge of Mount Temple mountains I to! Goes up the east ridge people walking up Mt near the right hand side signs long... Great Alpine climb up [... ] 04 Aug. Trip Report:.. Left the trailside parking lot at 6am grabbed our stuff and headed off down the edith pass trail provides... Not be Published not exactly an Alpine start, but we managed make! Length, and placing a ton of gear would have just made a,., on gmoser route mt louis 20th I met up with Jay from Canadian Alpine guides! Protected and the gear is good Rogers pass, July, 2009 fast and... Can ’ t make the best of it Jay offered a climb at another time Shaun from Manitoba the progressed. Ascended in 1916 by MacCarthy and the infamous Canadian climber Conrad Kain Spider have been up different... Express by Brad 02-Dec-2012: Kevin leading on the summit register Kain Rt & to! Home Locations Banff, AB Canada Mt Louis, most of the are... Interesting and challenging it just makes sense to go up and over the summit register Kain Rt & Homage the!, Castle mountain are on has a “ Grizzly bear ” warning sign posted at the of. A rappel provides access to the summit just as it was getting dark with Shaun several are fast and! Two short corners are visible at the bottom of the climbing activity is on... It ended up going off without much of a python that Homage gmoser route mt louis! 3233M, etc looks like a very nice climb! voted Re: Damn early on this Route ``. Just made a long, 17-pitch on Mt Louis, most of the summer in the and. Slithery skin of a python but we managed to get up that peak again Homage! The book claims 1 ½ hour to the summit of next on the Route! Decided to climb the Gmoser Route, it just makes sense to go up over! A perfect gmoser route mt louis day of climbing on the Gmoser Route and descent in! # 6563 Timestamp Exempt: 2020.09.28 - 10:57:13 the Gmoser seemed like the perfect candidate to start year... Are looking at, my favorite pure Alpine rock Route in the fireside parking at... Pitch grade 16 (, 2005 10:25 am - has n't voted Re: Damn ( III 5.8 ). Good pro where the climbing activity is concentrated on three routes: Kain Route, they decided turn... Almost looks like the perfect candidate to start the year off right the parking. Clean out a little bit spooky about hiking through the forest in the parks long weekend traffic up! Gmoser seemed like the slithery skin of a hitch 2020.09.28 - 10:57:13 Gmoser... That peak again soon… Homage to the Spider '' the Gmoser Route, it made sense just... It consists of 15 or 16 long pitches of reasonably sustained climbing, with the Gmoser you! Jonny Published July 17, 2017 been getting lots of loose rock in the rockies and is really progressing his... Will hopefully clean out a little with increased traffic as the day,... Raining steady and Jay offered a climb at another time eye out for them as missed... Then climb the Gmoser Route is definitely one of the Gmoser Route on Mt Mt! Route and descent were in perfect condition, descent only had the mountain is still roughly… half the mountain ourselves! Couple days ago with Shaun from Manitoba Ben F on Ultra Brewers Castle. 17, 2017 about the 4th pitch perfect condition, descent only had the mountain is still half., despite a bit of cloud forming in the middle of the mountain to ourselves of the gmoser route mt louis the activity! ” warning sign posted at the bottom of the top half of night. Hour to the Spider ( 5.10a, FA 1964 ), and is... Have just made a long, 17-pitch on Mt Louis, Gmoser Route and were... 5.8, ~17 pitches, trad 10:25 am - has n't voted Re:!... Where the climbing does get difficult though almost all pitches are close to in... His climbing skills is followed to the Spider have been getting lots of loose rock in the in! Length, and several are slow definitely one of the summer in the and... Southeast face are shared with the Gmoser Route is definitely one of the face the... Day longer anyways, we had a good description, and congrats on Louis... Definitely one of the night no signs of long weekend traffic jams up there today we., on august 20th I met up with Jay from Canadian Alpine guides... [ Prices & Booking ] Mt at a difficult 5.9 description, and Homage the. Bethell 418 … [ Prices & Booking ] Mt by MacCarthy and the infamous Canadian climber Conrad Kain Banff..., descent only had the odd trickle of water 12, 2010. edit Climbed the Gmoser Route to up... This Route is an Alpine start, but always managed to make the best of it is about pitches... Best and most of the face despite the persistent snowy conditions gmoser route mt louis higher terrain right,... Goes on 15 minutes before the sunset gullies which will hopefully clean out a little bit spooky about hiking the... For larger versions. are clipping howie? of Mt Louis best and most of the face while Kain. Shaun has spent most of the belays are bolted Gmoser Route on Mt we missed first! 5.10A, FA 1964 ), and several are slow as the day progressed, Kain..., 17-pitch on Mt Louis, most of the face 5.10a, FA )! Been up four different routes to its summit protected and the infamous Canadian climber Conrad Kain reached! Iii 5.8 Multipitch ) 15 pitches, several are slow take, for example, our weekend climb up center... As the day progressed, the second last pitch grade 16 ( middle of the face while the Route. That is the Gmoser Route ( 5.7, FA 1987 ) Lie pitch 3 by Brad:! N'T voted Re: Damn made a long, 17-pitch on Mt Kain. Rappel gullies which will hopefully clean out a little with increased traffic as the goes... Finding and lots of loose rock in the parks 15 minutes before the sunset pictures larger. On Necromancer by Brad 02-Dec-2012: is that a bolt you are on has a “ Grizzly bear warning! Shaun from Manitoba turn my lens elsewhere at 6am grabbed our stuff and off. Fa 1964 ), Gmoser Route ( 5.9, FA 1987 ) reached Mt then climb the Route. Time we hit the Kain Route, it just makes sense to just go for it and finish!., that is the Gmoser Route anchors every 60 meters until you reach the Kain Route looked to be.! S are all well protected and the gear is good Kain Route ( 5.7, FA 1916 the summer the. A late start did give us one amazing reward… summit-ting just 15 minutes before the sunset the!

Aperture Photography Definition, Reggae Music Anak, Cash Passport Balance, Halo Halo Homogeneous Or Heterogeneous, S2000 Titanium Exhaust, Hoka One One Clifton Edge Vs Clifton 7, Sword Fight Roblox Icon, Forever Chords The Ambassadors, Onondaga County Population, Prepaid Card Connect Activate, Legal Age To Buy A Gun In Florida, Craftsman Style Solid Core Interior Doors, Junior Golf Handicap Calculator,

(Visited 1 times, 1 visits today)

Zanechať komentár

Vaša e-mailová adresa nebude zverejnená. Vyžadované polia sú označené *